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Welcome to my roundup of Watches and Wonders 2024, where I’ll keep you updated on all the latest releases and highlights from the largest and most important watch event of the year.
With the eyes of every watch enthusiast and collector on the planet firmly on them, all of the biggest brands have unveiled their latest creations at the Geneva-based watch show, with Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Zenith, all taking part. And that’s just to name a few!
The show is taking place over several days, during which all brands will host a series of events and presentations – I’ll be in attendance, getting hands-on with all of the latest releases.
I’ll be picking my very favourite new launches and keeping you updated along the way. Here are the best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2024 so far… (updating)
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
Twenty five years after the launch of the original Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne has introduced a lustrous new interpretation at Watches and Wonders 2024. The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is an incredibly sophisticated timepiece, combining a flyback chronograph with a precise jumping minute counter, perpetual calendar and tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. It’s available for the first time in Lange-exclusive honey gold and as a “Lumen” version, limited to 50 watches.
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze
Jumping aboard the green trend, this new limited edition of the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver watch combines a bronze case with a green dial. The alloy used for the BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze is CuSn8, composed of 92% copper and 8% tin. Visually, its tone is quite close to classic fittings on sailing boats.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic
Bell & Ross is expanding its ‘urban’ BR 05 range by introducing ceramic, a technical material that remains true to its iconic color: black. Bell & Ross has chosen ceramic, a demanding material that ensures the robustness of the watches. Unlike the Bronze in the model above, it’s impervious to corrosion and scratches, ceramic makes the watches scratch-resistant and timeless.
Bremont
Bremont Terra Nova 38
Perhaps the biggest story of Watches and Wonders 2024 is the relaunch of Bremont. With a new focus on Land, Sea and Air, the new ranges feature a redesigned compass logo and bold new branding. The entry level model of the range is this Terra Nova 38 a time-only 38mm field watch. I love the compact geometric cushion case, with its low profile and shortened lugs itt sits very comfortably on the wrist. I also really love the incredibly retro dial, with applied lume hour markers. The Terra Nova 38 comes on either a brown leather strap or new geometric bracelet. With prices starting from just £2500, this new entry level to the Bremont brand really appeals to me.
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Power Reserve
Bremont’s Terra Nova collection is packed with great watches (seriously, check out the brand’s website), and while the 38mm is my pick of the bunch, I also really like the 40.5mm Turning Bezel Power Reserve model. This features a bi-directional compass bezel, power reserve featuring the cardinal signs, with a small seconds sub dial included as a direct refence to the heritage of vintage field watches. Despite being slightly larger than the 38mm model, it’s still a very comfortable wear. It comes a black and anthracite fabric NATO strap, brown leather strap, or steel bracelet.
Bremont Supermarine 300M
Leaving land and heading into the water now, the new Bremont Supermarine is the brand’s latest dive watch. The Supermarine collection has been entirely redesigned, with the new branding, as well as featuring a new, sleeker and slimmer profile case shape crafted in 904L steel. This maximises robustness and comfort. The watch is available in two version, the Supermarine and Supermarine Date, both are available on rubber strap, leather strap, or stainless steel bracelet. The Supermarine line starts at £2,950.
Cartier
Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time
The Santos de Cartier Dual Time watch uses it mechanical movement to track two time zones, allowing you to tell the time both where you are and where you’re from simultaneously. The colourway can only be described as Fifty Shades of Grey, with a steel case, satin-finish anthracite grey sunray-brushed dial, second time zone display with an additional hour hand in a counter and a day/night indicator. It’s available on a steel bracelet or anthracite alligator leather strap with “QuickSwitch” interchangeable system and folding buckle.
Chopard
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
A new addition to Chopard’s Alpine Eagle range, this precision chronograph combines the lightness of titanium with the aesthetic of a “Rhône Blue” dial. It’s a symbol of Chopard’s support for the Alpine Eagle Foundation dedicated to preserving the Alpine environment and its biodiversity.
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
Inspired by the very first L.U.C Qualité Fleurier watch in 2005, this new model launched at Watches and Wonders features curved lines endow it with an undeniably elegant profile and optimal wearer comfort. This horological masterpiece radiates a pervasive sense of nobility: its elongated welded lugs follow the pleasing proportions of the Lucent Steel case measuring 39mm in diameter and 8.92mm thick.
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Silver
Frederique Constant has been on a bit of a roll of late, and the Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Silver launched at Watches and Wonders might be my favourite model yet. The brand’s flagship timepiece is restrained, elegant and contemporary, with the collection expanding to include three new 40mm in steel. You can choose between a silver, blue or green dial, each powered by a new FC-716 movement.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko ‘Birch Bark’ Titanium Hi-Beat
This year at Watches and Wonders, for the first time in more than 50 years, Grand Seiko has announced a new hand-wound high-beat movement, the Caliber 9SA4. This watch features a new dial pattern, inspired by the horizontal patterns on white birch tree bark – found in the forests near Shizukuishi studio where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are crafted. It’s available in titanium or 18k rose gold.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
In 2022, Grand Seiko presented its first mechanical complication, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, a revolutionary watch that combined a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the first time in horological history. It was awarded the Chronometry Prize at that year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Today at Watches and Wonders, the Kodo story unfolds with the introduction of a limited-edition timepiece inspired by daybreak; its design perfectly complements that of the first. You see, while the first Kodo expressed evening twilight through the interplay of light and shadow, the new timepiece uses light and shadow to evoke daybreak instead.
Hermès
Hermès Cut
One of my biggest surpises from Watches and Wonders this year was the Hermès Cut. It’s a compact 36mm watch, that is mostly circular asside from some well placed angles. It has beautifully balanced proportions, which is mixture of satin-brushing and polishing on the case. The crown is boldly positioned at half past one and embellished with a lacquered or engraved H. The playful dial is punctuated by luminescent applied Arabic numerals in Hermès’ unique font. The watch is powered by a Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement, and can be customised with a number of quick-change straps.
Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé
Sitting at the other end of the horological scale is the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé. It features a large, domed saphire glass, which perfect displays the triple axis tourbillon and a minute repeater below.
H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
Designed to offer an unparalleled visual and mechanical experience, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton features a stunning minimalist aesthetic and perfect symmetry. True to its minimalist philosophy, H. Moser & Cie. has stripped away all unnecessary material to better showcase and enhance the piece, laying bare the beauty of its mechanism. At the heart of this exceptional watch lies a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring that appears to float weightlessly.
Hublot
Hublot Big Bang UNICO Orange Ceramic
Taking ‘Clockwork Orange’ literally, the Big Bang Orange Ceramic introduces a brand new ceramic colour. This vibrant orange is the result of a unique alchemy and a flawless resistance to shocks and scratches. At its heart beats the Unico Chronograph Manufacture calibre – the very latest generation of the automatic flyback chronograph movement developed by Hublot. It guarantees a three-day (72 hours) power reserve. This series is limited to 250 pieces.
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only Blue Ceramic
The Big Bang Integrated Time Only is back. It embodies the original DNA of the Big Bang, with a solid dial and integrated bracelet, in a new, compact 38mm version. For the first time, the Big Bang Integrated Time Only will be equipped with a new movement – the HUB1115, which has undergone a major quality upgrade in terms of its technical and aesthetic features. The main improvements take the form of a brand-new oscillating weight bearing and a stronger mainspring enabling the power reserve to be extended to 48 hours.
IWC
Portugieser Automatic 40
IWC Schaffhausen introduces new Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 models at Watches and Wonder 2024. Both sizes have a re-engineered case construction, double box-glass sapphire crystals and intricately manufactured dials.
IWC Schaffhausen has also completely re-engineered the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 at Watches and Wonders. Available in four versions, two come in 18-carat white gold with Horizon Blue and Dune dials, while two models are presented in 18-carat Armor Gold, with either an Obsidian or a Silver Moon dial.
All new models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre with a Pellaton winding system and a power reserve of 7 days.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
For the first application of the Duometre, in 2007, the Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers set themselves the hardest challenge by developing a chronograph watch as accurate as a chronometer. In 2024, the Maison celebrates the Duometre in an entirely new timepiece, marrying the high precision of a chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. It’s powered by the new Calibre 391 and presents an intriguing contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph and the slow rhythm of the moon, complemented by a Night and Day display.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Blue
The Classic Moon Blue, with its annual calendar and moon phase, embodies classical elegance, thanks to its meticulously curated dial. Its monochrome dial brings a modern twist to the Classic design with an unmatched refinement. Inside is the new LF126.02 – a redesigned and improved movement with an 80-hour power reserve, replenished through the crown. Over 30 new components have been added to create this new calibre, and more than twenty have been revised and optimized.
Montblanc
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810
After striving for great heights, Montblanc has plunged into uncharted depths at 4810 meters below sea level. Why such a precise water resistance? It inverts the 4810-meter height of the Mont Blanc Mountain – connecting the ocean to the mountain (which has always been a part of the Maison’s DNA). Beyond its eye-catching aesthetics, this timepiece is created to perform in extreme conditions.
Housed in a 43mm titanium case, this new diving is powered by Montblanc’s manufacture, COSC-certified, automatic MB 29.29 movement, with approximately five days of power reserve.
With its latest 1858 Geosphere timepiece showcasing a design as strong as the innovation within, Montblanc pushes the concept of oxygen — the central element in any intrepid ascent — even further.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 LE1969
On top of being a “Zero Oxygen” timepiece — meaning that Zero Oxygen is housed inside the case and features several benefits for explorers who need their equipment to work in harsh environments — the new Geosphere middle watch case material is created using a pioneering process that captures CO₂ from biogas production and mineral waste produced by recycling factories, thanks to a process of calcium dissolution and carbonation.
Nomos Glashütte
Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
Nomos Glashütte has long been known for its color expertise, but now, at Watches and Wonders 2024, the watchmaking company is presenting its bestseller Tangente in no less than 31 different colorful versions. These special edition Tangente 38 Date models have been created to celebrate 175 Years Watchmaking in Glashütte. Each colour combination is limited to 175 pieces and contrains the hand-wound caliber DUW 4101. It’s made by Nomos in Glashütte, Germany and regulated according to chronometer values. Check out all of the amazing colurways on Nomos Glashütte’s website – it’s almost impossible to pick a favourite!
Oris
Oris Aquis Date
Oris’s best-selling everyday toolwatch, the Aquis Date, returns this year with a long list of refinements. Everything you can see has been reworked and upscaled to deliver better ergonomics, better performance and better aesthetics. When I say everything has been reworked, I mean everything – even the packaging has been redesigned. It’s now made entirely from cardboard and paper more than half of which is recycled, with the remainder coming from FSC-certified sources.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe 5330G-001
Patek Philippe has launched its new 5330G-001 at Watches and Wonders, distinguished by a patented world first: a self-winding 240 HU C caliber with an innovative differential system to manage local-time date. This entire mechanism comprises 70 components. The opaline blue-gray dial features a carbon-patterned center. A red dot between Auckland and Midway marks the date-change line on the city disk.
Raymond Weil
Raymond Weil Millesime collection
Raymond Weil’s new ‘millesime’ collection as its flagship in reaching out to new generations. It seems like I’m the generation they’re trying to reach, becasue I adore these new collection of watches. At Watches and Wonders 2024 the millesime collection expandes with 11 new references, each meticulously crafted under the banner of understated luxury. They weave together character, elegance, watchmaking tradition, contemporary design, exquisite finishes, and Swiss quality. They’re also remarkably accessible, with prices starting at 1,575 CHF (around £1,400).
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon
The latest version of Roger Dubuis’ Monotourbillon is presented in Grade 5 Titanium. It makes it one of the most understated and wearable pieces in Dubuis’ lineup. The 42mm case is lightweight and comfortable, with the monotourbillon positioned at 7 o’clock. It’s limited to 28 pieces worldwide.
Rolex
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40
A watch that was recently glimpsed at the Oscars, Rolex has expanded the Day-Date range with new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36. The new models are presented in 18 ct Everose gold, introducing slate ombré – a completely new hue for such a dial. The surface, coloured at the centre, progresses to a deep black around the edge. Also appearing for the first time on the ombré dial of this watch are faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18 ct pink gold.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Taking the incredibly popular black/grey bezel from last year’s gold GMT-Master II, Rolex has added it to the more attainable Oystersteel version. It feature a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic. The graduation is clearly visible thanks to its platinum coating, applied via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The first watch is fitted with either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet.
Rolex 1908
Rolex is elevating the Perpetual 1908 line up, with a new model decked in 950 platinum and graced with an ice blue dial featuring a guilloche rice-grain motif. This rosette-like design is distinctive for its three-dimensional, repeating geometric pattern that extends across the surface of the dial, starting from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The minute track is surrounded by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, which is also guilloché.
Rolex Deepsea
If you find your luxury yatch sinking, you’ll wish you were wearing the new 18 ct yellow gold Rolex Deepsea. This is the first time the professional divers’ watch is presented in 18 ct yellow gold. It sports a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic as well as a blue lacquer dial bearing the name ‘Deepsea’ in powdered yellow.
This new version also incorporates a technical innovation: the high-performance compression ring within the Ringlock system is crafted from ceramic. The compression resistance and anti-deformation properties of this high-tech material contribute to the waterproofness of the watch.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carerra Chronograph 7753 SN
A new addition to TAG Heuer’s ‘Glassbox’ Carrera Chronograph collection, this model is a reinterpretation of the ‘7753 SN’ chronograph from the late 1960s. The original 7753 SN had a silvered dial with black subdials and was designed for ultimate legibility. The new 2024 model takes Jack Heuer’s 1963 vision and combines it with the ultra-popular modern glassbox 39mm steel case, topped with a sapphire crystal reminiscent of vintage Heuer Carrera models. I love the vintage bi-compax ‘Panda’ dial – it might be my favourite model yet.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
TAG Heuer has taken a step towards Haute Horlogerie d’Avant-Garde with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. It’s a vibrant tribute to the original 1969 model, with the highly sophisticated rattrapante chronograph complication now encased inside.
Tudor
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Perhaps my highlight of the show so far is the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. It’s a watch that Tudor fans have been begging for for a long time due to the current Black Bay GMT’s rather chunky dimensions. The Black Bay 58 GMT has a 39mm diameter case and a bidirectional bezel in red and black, with gold numbering. It comes on a cut-to-size rubber strap, or stainless steel bracelet, and is priced from £3,770.
Tudor Black Bay
Taking inspiration from last year’s Black Bay 54, Tudor has also launched a new monochromatic Black Bay in 41mm. It comes with all of the latest in Black Bay enhancements introduced at W&W last year, including the ‘T Fit’ clasp and a movement that is Master Chronometer certified by METAS. It’s priced from £3,630.
Tudor Black Bay 58 18K
If the other two Tudor launches are too understated for you, the new Black Bay 58 18K in full yellow gold could be more your style. It was previously only available on a strap, but the new Black Bay 58 18K features a 3-link yellow gold bracelet, manufacture calibre and ‘T-Fit’ clasp. It weighs in at 193 grams, making it the heaviest watch in Tudor’s collection and is priced at £27,610.
Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
Ulysse Nardin, famed in the watch industry for its innovative spirit, has introduced the Freak S Nomad at Watches and Wonders 2024. It is the first new iteration of ’the Superlative Freak’, pushing technicality to the limits with its double oscillator using DiamonSIL technology and ‘Grinder’ automatic winding system.
It showcases an innovative pioneering surface treatment, a combination of silicium and synthetic diamond, called DiamonSIL. The silicium components of the escapement of the Freak S Nomad have been coated with a layer of artificial diamond which optimises its performance and its resistance to abrasion from the several million impacts per year on the watch.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Green is the hottest colour in the watch industry at the moment and now it can be found in the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection. It’s the first time green has featured in the Overseas, with dials featuring a sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished flange. The new dial colour is available on four pink gold models, the chronograph, dual time, and date in both 41 mm and 35 mm.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony manual-winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
VC’s Patrimony collection is a celebration of watchmaking minimalism. It’s been extended at Watches and Wonders with three new models, featuring a new sunburst antique silver-toned dial, new fresh strap colours, a customisable caseback and a diameter trimmed to 39 mm for the manual-winding models.
Zenith
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
An extension to Zenith’s Defy Extreme range, this new Diver model is designed to take the range to new depths. Its 42.5mm angular case is crafted in titanium and is rated to 600 metres (60 ATM) of water resistance, which happens to be 1’969 feet – a symbolic number for the DEFY diver. The DEFY Extreme Diver is powered by the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre with 60 hours power reserve, visible through a sapphire display back – an uncommon feature among diver’s watches.
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph
According the Zenith, the Defy Skyline collection is finally complete thanks to this stunning new chronograph model. It’s a natural continuation and expansion of Zenith’s popular Defy Skyline range. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph features the Manufacture’s latest iteration of the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, endowed with a 1/10th of a second chronograph function.
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