How to master soft beauty portraits with large umbrellas

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What’s your favourite light modifier? From octaboxes to beauty dishes, I’ve had a few, and my preferences have changed gradually over the course of my photographic journey. One particular favourite of mine is the humble umbrella, but does anybody still use them anymore?

Mark Wallace asks this question in this excellent video. He is correct that photographers often start out using umbrellas before we move on to other modifiers. They are relatively cheap, portable, and simple to use. However, we are making a mistake by thinking of them as merely a beginner tool. In the video, Mark demonstrates how to create stunning, soft-light portraits using just a giant umbrella.

Setting up the key light

Mark begins by setting up a deep silver umbrella as our key light. This umbrella reflects a lot of light, but its specular nature can make the model’s skin appear shiny. Despite this, it’s a great starting point. Here’s how he sets it up:

Positioning: Ensure the light is deep enough to hit only the umbrella without spilling out the sides. Position it slightly to the side to create a bit of contrast.

Height: Keep the umbrella at a moderate height to allow the light to surround the model.

Metering: Use a light meter to achieve an exposure of f/8, eliminating ambient light. Initially, the setup was too bright, so he adjusted the power until he reached the desired f/8.

Adding diffusion

To soften the specular light from the silver umbrella, Mark added a diffusion panel:

Attachment: The diffusion panel fits over the umbrella, transforming the harsh light into a soft, beautiful glow.

Re-metering: Adding the panel reduced the light to f/6.3, so they adjusted again to reach f/8.

Positioning: Fine-tune the umbrella’s position to ensure the light is as on-axis with the camera as possible, minimizing shadows.

Introducing the kicker light

To add depth, Mark included a second umbrella as a kicker light:

Umbrella Type: A standard umbrella (not deep) was used to provide a soft highlight on the opposite side of the model’s face.

Positioning: Place the kicker light behind and slightly to the side of the model, ensuring it doesn’t enter the shot.

Metering: Aim for an exposure close to the key light, around f/8. After some adjustments, they settled at f/9.

Fine-tuning: Adjust the light’s power to season the highlight to taste.

This video shows that creating beautiful portraits doesn’t require complex setups. Using just two umbrellas (a large one with diffusion for the key light and a standard one for the kicker light) achieved professional-quality results. So don’t neglect those umbrella modifiers lurking in the back of your gear cupboard; get them out again; you may just love the results!

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